Ski Mountaineering in Chamonix

I was lucky enough recently to go to Chamonix for my first week of skiing there - including a couple of days of off-piste. I had only been there once before, climbing, and that was the first time I'd ever used a guide. I've figured out that certain places and activities benefit hugely from a local introducer, and without one in Cham, you may die. And, as my friend Jim Lawyer says, hiring a guide is a good way to get up something.

My guide the first visit two years ago was Gael Pernollet, who referred me to Sylvain Ravanel this trip. Both are superb men, guides, and members of the the La Compagnie Guides de Chamonix (http://www.chamonix-guides.com/). For all the guides winter is a key season, and as Gael was occupied he referred me to Sylvain.

Sylvain's contribution to this blog has to do with simplicity. He is a big proponent, and there were plenty of instances where it was hard to argue with the guide and his experience. For example, putting on skis just below the Aiguille de Midi is a fairly standard exercise: you walk down the ridge, complete with handrails and cut steps in winter up until around May. While crampons are likely a good thing, aluminum will suffice, and Sylvain loaned me some as I had none. The little landing where you clip into the skis is a bit exposed, and I was having trouble with my Dynafits, which I've only used for a couple of seasons. Fortunately I'd just put on runaway leashes (G3), because the bindings did not want to engage properly for me, and I don't have ski breaks. This is when Sylvain expressed his disdain for the 'tech binding' of which the Dynafit is the pre-eminent and original example. He, like most off- and on-piste skiers I saw, has a step in binding (Silvretta Pure Carbon in his case on a light rig, Rossis for a heavier weight setup he used another day.) The Fritchi was a very pervasive binding, and heavier ski setups than mine were on about 70% of those I saw.

While I'm still very happy with my light weight AT gear (see earlier posts) I can concede that a heavier setup would be good to have for all the on-again off-again skiing in Cham: the piste seems to be mostly the access and easiest way down, with much of the terrain which is 'off-piste' being right next to lift accessed runs. And there is no question if I were a good enough skier to hit steep or icy couloir I'd want a step-in rig with heavier skis. There is more food for thought to come on Sylvain's 'simple is right' approach.

Got gear?

Since I'm in treatment for my gear obsession disorder, my therapist says it's good to document some of the peculiarities of my condition. One symptom is my preoccupation with not having the right tool at the right time (second only to having too much stuff - actually a much more real and present danger for me.) Years ago I was climbing a wonderful multi-pitch waterfall in Vermont at Smuggler's Notch, The Blue Room, I believe. After 2 streaming pitches in temperatures almost 30 degrees below freezing, I was happily ensconced in a cave, belaying my partner John Thackray up the final 40 feet to the top. Near the top I heard a faint complaint: "all the screws are solid ice to the core - do you have any more?" I reviewed the situation (our belay had the only other screws) and admitted that I didn't have any more, nor did I have a means of clearing those which were blocked, other than inserting them in an unspecified part of my anatomy. I declined, and we retreated, having had a fine time, but not a complete line. Since then I carry a small tent peg, probably less than $1, and have never had this issue. It's the old 'for loss of a nail the kingdom was lost' but it must resonate with many explorers: when has any serious outdoor activist not been stopped cold by not having just that particular piece of trickery? Now it must be said that in the tradition of John Muir, reported to camp with an overcoat, cup, blanket and a few pieces of food and tinder, we are wimps. However, accepting that fact, packing is always a balancing act between bringing enough to gain your objectives and not too much, so you're dragged down by the weight. In the case of the ice screw dilemma, the item in question weighs maybe an ounce, so the weight/benefit analysis would have show it well worth bringing. My favorite trip last winter (there are a few shots below) was to the Trap Dike with one Philip Drew. We brought skis for the approach and exit, minimal camping kit for the night, ice axes and crampons, a 30 meter rope and an ice screw or two. We had a blast. Everything got used, the weight was not too onerous on the iced luge run of a trail, we had to scrimp in a few spots, down climbing where we could not rappel, but it all worked out. It was enormously satisfying, even for a kit hound like me.

Work Backpacks

While most of the gear on this blog is designed in some way for the backcountry, we all need something to tote our work around in (at least those of us who are not independently wealthy.) I've come across a few good solutions. For years I used, and still have and use, very solid, inexpensive bags from Brooklyn Industries, from right here in the heart of Brooklyn (http://www.brooklynindustries.com.) They make functional items. My one issue with the one I've had is the lack of structure - not that too many nylon-type bags will stand up on their own - which is a pain when you're working out of the bag. My brother-in-law, the delightful Robert Casper, is always sporting outstanding urban gear so I went to him and he directed me to Rickshaw Bags, from San Francisco (www.rickshawbags.com.) I got a waterproof version of their largest item, the backpack (they are largely into messenger bags,) and it rocks. It's not light, but you can remove some of the internal organizers and the laptop sleeve, and it's a stand-alone item. It also can hold several day's clothing and if I don't need a suit bag (Patagonia's Burrito design has been resurrected, and is better than ever), it will do for a business trip. Finally, if you're too up market for even Rickshaw's pricey nylon bags, the Saddleback Leather Company (www.saddlebackleather.com) makes truly indestructible and beautiful items. I got a duffel for my dad recently and a man who gets excited about very little got excited. One of my business partners and I also gave a briefcase / pack to our CEO and he regularly gets compliments on it. They are not cheap, or light, but if you like something you can hand down to the next generation, they're where it's at.

Back to Backpacks

Since this is where it all began, I thought I'd revisit the topic. As mentioned before, I've had a preference for small boutique makers like Cilo Gear (www.cilogear.com) and Cold Cold World (http://www.coldcoldworldpacks.com) having used them with success over the years as dedicated climbing packs. Recently I've been a bit more inclined to use packs which can offer more frame support during the carry part of my outings. While you can always strip it out, it's hard to beat a nice carry on the trail, even if it is more critical that you be able to lead UIAA V or vertical ice at a few key points. For those really technical outings, I suppose I still prefer the venerable Valdez I have from Cold Cold World, or a pre-production 30 L CiloGear Dyneema item I tried in the past few years. But I've been using a larger, if lightweight, pack from Black Diamond (http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/), a 45 L Quantum, and a smaller 35 L one from Deuter (http://www.deuterusa.com). The former is great, if a bit bottom worn (probably not the right sack for JTree, given the sandpaper granite;) the latter is more recent, but addresses the durability issue. The BD can be stripped clean, which is great when you use it for an overnight and then a climb. The Deuter I've only cragged with, but it has leashless tool holders and good ski slots, both of which I find handy. Ultimately I like them for the carry, which is very comfortable, probably a sign of my middle-aged decadence. However, they are the biz for now. For a perfect leader pack I'd have to point to one of the smaller BD packs, like the bullet or the beebee, the smaller CiloGear packs, and a very slick mini Arc'teryx which Jim Lawyer was sporting at Potter Mountain in the Adirondacks recently. Jim also carrys a pack/haul sack, by Metolius I think, which is probably key if your doing lots of hauling and are a bit indifferent to the carry issue.

First Outings - Limited Gear

For our part, my brother and I headed to the ‘upper 40′ of my father’s 100 or so acres in mid-state NY with 2 WW2 canvas army bags, my brand new Timberline A frame and a very suspect canister stove. Only through my brother’s interventions and inventiveness did we get the fire needed due to the useless paperweight I’d brought for a stove, and my ignorance about keeping gas cannisters warm. I have never used one since, and my brother vowed never to winter camp again, but we were only minutes from home and still chose to stay out the night. My mother still tells the tale, and I still appreciate the memory of my brother getting that fire going, just as I do memories of him sharing the last of his food when we were on short rations later and I’d scarfed the last of my food. Him carving up one small English muffin with pb&j into three parts (there was another miscreant aboard), seated cross-legged on a river bed a dozen miles into the southern drainage of Mt. Marcy in the Adirondacks.

Dynafit TLT Speed Binding

These are an outstanding match for a light ski, fat or thin. I have them on Trabs, but the more serious backwoods crew I take tips from in the Adirondacks likes them on some heavier BD wide skis. There are a few things I noted in terms of differences when skiing on them with an incredibly hospitable Park City guru: they do not have the little channels on the pins which allow the other Dynafit binding pins to clear ice from your toe insets if you step in slightly and then run your foot forward and back (a useful thing to have, as ice often builds in there and we don't all carry roofing nails with us); and (obviously) they do not have ski brakes, so you need to wear straps on piste and/or not lose track of your skis on steep or deep ground. Otherwise they are everything you might need, just less of it. A very light and elegant package.

Ski Trab Stelvio FreeRide Alpine Ski

I know I indicated more packs next time, but since I just managed to put my skis down for the summer, they were on my mind (and yes, that's a long time to wait to wax, sharpen and put away these tools, but what can I say I'm slow.)

When these arrived at my local ski shop, the employees were all stunned. I think the comment was 'sorry they're so wet, we've all been drooling all over them.' The more meaningful indication of their quality was that the 2 skis measured exactly the same in grams: basically unheard of. These are a tremendous ski for the weight, and even without that consideration they are an excellent item.

I used it out of bounds in UT, at Solitude, and in the backwoods of the Adirondacks. Therefore they had a chance to play in 1+ foot power, and on rain hardened ice, and everything in between. They did just dandy on all of that. I went relatively short - I'm 6'2", ski these with a 25-45 lb pack and am 190+ - and the 178 is great. I am not a super aggressive skier, and at higher speeds on groomers there was very little chatter - although the light weight was notable. An excellent item and if on sale a great value. Paired with TLT Speed Turns (first generation) and boots ranging from the old Blue Garmont Super Rides (pretty comfortable) to Dynafit TLT 5s (yellow and mellow) all the way to TLT 7s (light, right, stiffer than peers and super comfortable.). They ski so well I put them on an adjustable heel so they can be skied by many, for years to come. Lack of rocker not a notable lack in terms of powder performance, although it is nicer with rocker if you can float the soft as you choose.