Wednesday, February 25, 2026

Winter Kit

I recently sent a note to a friend about winter kit he might consider adding to his inventory. 

Ways to keep water from freezing. 
  • Water bottle parkas: 40 Below is my go to. This company has forgotten more about keeping stuff warm than any of us will ever want to know, unless you have aspirations to Denali, the high Himalaya or the poles, in which case you definitely want to know them. They also make an interesting VBL vest, which I've experimented with, for keeping the insulation on your back under a pack dry. 
  • OR makes the OR Water Bottle Parka which are light and popular ones too, which I've never used, and is twice the price.  
  • There are nice thermos options (I like Zojirushi and have two, one of which works a lot less well now I've dented it extensively, something that seems to happen to my thermoses eventually and should be avoided...)
  • I have used an old telephoto 35mm lens case (Sundance?) which fit a one liter Nalgene perfectly. I lined it with tin foil for very cold days, but it worked fine for day trips and is much lower bulk than the alternatives (with concomitantly less insulation.) 
  • It is good to be able to clip whatever you have to your backpack strap for making rehydration easy, so I put a loop on the hinge of my 40below, and a mini-biner, and you can just clip a carabiner to the OR.

Ways to keep your hands warm:
  • I've had Leki mitts for very cold skiing for a couple of years and like them, and their Leki pole attachment system. The fabric inside and the individual fingers does not work well for extensive backcountry trips or other sports (fabric gets damp, making them hard to get on,) but they are great on piste (aka at the resort.)
  • I just got some Black Diamond Mercury Mitts, which seem initially very good, replacing a lost mitt from a recent adventure...like all my favorite mitts and gloves they have a fuzzy pile lining, just like..
  • Hestra Falt Guide Gloves. Great durable leather outer, fuzzy wool pile lining. I use the liners for my coldest weather runs, which they are great for: warm at first but they breath well as you warm up.
  • I used to have a couple of pair/generations of the venerable Jalapeno Mitts (sadly discontinued) by Mountain Hardware and loved those too. I bet MH still makes a good glove and that it's good value, but check that as I don't know first hand.
  • I have Leki leather gloves for skiing at the resort when it's closer to freezing or above, and not too wet. Great feeling, good marriage with their 'shark' system poles.
  • I just bought some Mountain Equipment Hypercouloir gloves, which promise to be the warmest I've owned, but are currently very stiff and will take some time to break in. I hope to live that long.
  • I had a great pair of Arc'teryx gloves, one of which I lost on an exciting descent (see prior post). The new version of these was way too stiff for me, so I'm trying the above Mnt Eq, which seem stiff too, but we shall see...
  • My son has the OR artic mitts, and swears by them for deep cold. He often uses the outer mitt with a modest liner, and has even been known to climb in the inners (they look slippery to me.)
  • Glove liners (I use smart wool or Mazama or Terramax or anything but never nothing). Just got some silk ones which are nice as they slide into tighter fitting gloves, will see about durability. 
  • Folks will use handwarmers. I can't stand them, but have been known to put one in my chalk bag on a <40 degree Fahrenheit day. In winter, get a warmer glove, or a friend's belly. The wag from High Mtn has an Insta post on the old handwarmers, lighter fluid based (what could possibly go wrong...) and if you really need something that seems a bit more sustainable. If I ever find your handwarmer on the trail, skin track or ski slope you are definitely going to the special place Dante carved out at the 81/2 level of hell...
Ways to keep your face warm:
  • While I've used hats, neck warmers and balaclavas and still use them, there are better options out there. For hats, I love an old much moth-eaten and patched one from a beloved shop in Williamsburg long gone. I also have some decent ones from the old Ibex and Smartwool.
  • Balaclavas: These are generally the best for climbing. If I have a good hood (on the base layer, mid layer, outer layer, etc.) I'll use that for ski touring, but I like having more neck mobility when climbing, and like Colin Hayley Colin's clothing systems prefer less hoods (or well matched ones.) I have 2 'ballies' by Patagonia of different weights, slight preference for the 'Air' one, but it snags a bit, the older (made of R1?) holds it's shape better over time and snags less. I am trying one by OuterU, with a hole in the top.
  • I do always have a Buff with me, and generally have a fleece neck warmer, the former tighter, the latter looser.
  • I like a pile neck warmer when it's very cold. Any one will do. I have an old loose patagonia one, and a warmer smartwool double layer for very cold conditions. I also have old EMS and Climb High ones, they all work similarly.
  • Speaking of Climb High, I have an epic helmet liner, definitely the dorkiest thing I own, and it's great for very cold days. I'm pretty sure mine was <$10 and originally went inside a Joe Brown helmet (you'll have to look that up.)
  • OuterU face masks. This is a new item, and I think an innovative one. I have used them this winter during an unusually cold one in the northeast. I have really appreciated them when the frostbite risk is high, while mountaineering, ice climbing or skiing. Perhaps the best indication that they work is how much I regret not having one when I wish I did. 
  • They (OuterU) also make a topless (hole at the top of your head) balaclava in two weights one of which I've bought but yet to try out but will soon. Since I already have a hole in my head, and my hair, right there, I'm not sure how it will work, but I do a lot of heat exchange via my bald spot, so they may be on to something.
Feet Tactics:

  • Don't sweat. This is something I've been working with and it seems to help. Clean your feet, apply anti-perspirant, dry socks, warm boots, go climbing. I know others who have used VBLs in severe cold but I'm hoping not to go out in those temperatures anytime soon. Again, refer to the wag at: HMG.
  • Go for fit in your boots, not brand, not looks, not thickness (except if you want to get a 6,000 or 8,000 meter boot, which, well fine, be that way.) Use lighter socks than you think, I go with a medium Smartwool or Darn Tough, only a single sock, or a very thin Dissent or Bridgedale or Smartwool in ski boots. I also have taken to Zip Fit liners, and generally any boot that fits really well. When I started climbing I had Galibier Super Guides. They were great for training weight, and I think my climbing partner still has them. Then Asolo 101s, which were a bit bulky, but very warm and worked well. In my 20s I began on Scarpas, and then my feet seemed to like the last of LaSportivas. That lasted (ahem) about a decade and then I went back to Scarpas. I'm on my second pair of the Phantom Tech Guide, and they work great for me. Similarly for ski boots I've found that Technica is a boot that fits me pretty well, and I'm on my second pair of Zero Gs. I also have their lighter boots which I like, especially if you're putting them on in the cold (the Zero Gs are terrible for that). They do seem to allow my toe to slide up towards the front when in walk mode, but that's likely something I can fix with a fitter. I'm using the GFT mostly inbounds, due to weight, and only in the Zero G, but considering the new light Espresso. The GFT is by far the best liner I've used, and I got it and any punches I've needed from Marc Stewart at Windham. I also use after market foot beds, either a superfeet, or in some cases a custom one I had made for my old Dynafit TLT 5s and 6s by Steve Sueda of Turnpike Comfort Footwear. Find someone who understands the sport you need a custom build for, and ideally does that sport at or around your level.
Base Layers

I will admit that I don't wear long john pants climbing much any more. I believe Jed Porter pointed out that he doesn't like how it feels, and I thought hell, he's got something. I got a pair of Patagonia M10 pants (very nice design Colin), and Nano-air pants, had my tailor put a matching pee zipper in the latter, and use that for about 90% of my ice climbing. It has excellent mobility, is mighty light, and moves like Jagger. And I have not been too cold or overheated as long as it's between -20 and 20 degrees F. Your results may vary. I still do use long underwear bottoms sometimes, and a top all the time.
  • I have used them all, going way back to Helly Hanson's extremely stinky polypro in the 70s (be grateful if you were not there.) I also have a beloved climbing partner who when I met him thought that washing his Capiline would decrease it's effectiveness (that lasted one outing.) I have just started using fishnet. It means I can get into clubs in Berlin or go ice climbing. And it works well, vents great, and seems to be warmer. The fit is also very fine, in that it covers my tuchus. Brynje is in fact the better mousetrap. I also run at times in an old Crazy Idea skimo fishnet top. I cherish the massive amounts of fun my wife dishes on me too.
  • I still use wool and poly whatever. For the former, I love Beringia's waffle type stuff, especially for cold weather skiing and ski touring, although it's become crazy expensive, so my moth-eaten ones will need to last, and even though I wash it carefully, it seems to run a bit small (made in Japan will do that at times). I have used and use both Smartwool, Ibex and I'm sure others, and they are quality, although the latter are old enough that the elastic waistbands have failed. I have some Arc'teryx ones, which are heavy, have lots of stretch and while they look the best, I'd say they are the worst of them all, except for lounging at the fire in the Goldminer's Daughter, which I've never done, so not an issue. They do have a great zip pocket which is good, and I think they are fine for resort skiing, and I like that they slide smoothly against other layers, something I value for high output sports.
  • For petroleum products I like Patagonia. I have the light for warm weather bottoms, the mid for those temps, and the 'air' for very cold. If I'm camping or multi-sporting (bc skiing, climbing, freezing, etc.) I will often go with these.
Puffy Jackets (there are sooooo many; but I've had a few, so here goes):
  • Feathered Friends. (I have an old Volant, my brother and a friend have had the Rock and Ice which is more robust). The Volant is short of features, but has just enough with two zip chest pockets and non-zip handwarmers. The R&S is a beast with greater length, zipped pockets, and that same Michelin man look. They also make a full expedition jacket, and a suit.
  • Patagonia: For camping and mixed precip I use the first two synthetics:
    • DAS or 
    • DAS lite, if down may be a problem due to weather or sustained proximity to moisture (think snow caves). Generally down is better if you only have one.
    • Grade VII. Since I bought it off-season at half price, it is definitely worth it. And likely even at full price, if you're going to Denali (not that I've been) or the greater ranges, it's superb I'm sure. It has great features, and I hear they have made it more durable, although I'm yet to damage mine, mostly because it's so damn cold when I use it you are almost immobilized. I have paired it with their hard-to-find but invaluable Elephant's foot, and they make a tidy package for extreme cold bivy action.
    • Many other light synthetic puffy layers, almost without exception fantastic.
  • Norrona: Years ago the evil god of gear Dane Burns brought my attention to a Norrona jacket which was on sale, Lyngen, and while I did not need it, for <$300 I bought it. Now it  is my go-to in the middle space. It's incredibly comfortable, soft yet durable, and has served me extremely well, as has every other piece I've bought from them. They do run slim, those svelte Scandinavians. 
  • Marmot: once upon a time these were the bomb. I think that they really were the first intro my family had to super high quality down with excellent construction. I had one, my dad had one (it's still bouncing around the family, even though he's sadly not,) and they all seem to continue to be handed down. Not sure of current construction, but sure valued these in their day.
  • Arc'teryx: I know everyone likes to dish on the dead bird, but they have some chops... 
    • I had an early Cerium and it was and is great. I believe they are much less so now, but my son still has mine, stolen fair and square, and with washing it keeps cranking for him and he travels the world with it.
    • Alpha, SV, LT, SL, etc... I have had, and still have, almost all of these. They have been very good, and still live in the hands of other members of my family (one with a cool dragon embroidery to patch the elbow I blew out.) I've had them with in the case of the LT without hoods. The LT has a nice feature of stretch panels under the arms, and is one of the best venting mid-layers along with the Patagonia nano hybrid.
  • Western Mountaineering: I put them here because I use their sleeping bags, which are pretty close to peerless, and so I assume that their jackets are up there too. This is an untested assumption.
Shells - for another post, too long.

Avoiding Losing S#!7:
    • Ice Axe Tethers: I've used Blue Ice which I prefer and others by Camp and BD. I have old Blue Ice individual ones which have nothing but a bungee inside webbing. you slide them through the spike and over the head, after girth hitching to your harness. Pretty elegant, but a bit of a captive solution. I have not used these much, but I have used those with clips to attach to the tools and a swivel where they connect to your harness belay loop. This prevents tangling. I can think of two ice climbs where I did use these, and they were a good idea. 
Once was a pain in the patookie, because it was a grade 5 ice climb (Kaaterskill Falls: I'm seen on Gottleib's Roof p1., my partner is rapping to the right of the main falls when it's still running; I was surprised to find the pictures (below) of it when I actually climbed it, because my focus was elsewhere, but they do show that...
As you can see, this is a route with lots of icicles which kept snagging the leashes until my management of them improved. However, there were plenty of places on that route where dropping a tool would have been highly problematic, so it was worth navigating.




More recently my son and I used them on a long moderate ice route where dropping a tool was not an option, and they served their purpose ably. I generally don't use them when cragging, but Silas has a great post on where/why/how you might want to use them: 
Silas' Insta. Here's a shot on the way up, and the down, both locations where leashes were a good idea:

 



And then the down...

 

 Toby eyeballing the 700' un roped downclimb with the 200' ice cliff at the bottom, which we couldn't see...but could feel...good application for leashes. Bad dad...

    • Eye glasses straps (aka geek strap): I wear spectacles, and even progressives (that's like bifocals without the line.) I have used contact lenses for ice, or skiing, or just about anything especially if there is extremely high humidity. But I prefer the vision I get with glasses, so about 98% of the time that's what I wear. I do generally carry spares, even if it's just the prescription sunglasses (wore a pair of those for a week-long camping and climbing trip down the Tuolumne river after putting my regulars under my partner's ass on a ledge.) I have taken to getting Julbo to make custom glacier glasses or transitions, and do like these when I think that things might get rough, but often just wear my glasses with Croakies or Chums of some kind or another. The Julbos come with a superior dedicated setup. In a pinch, I've used the small cord from my compass, and have seen Andrew McLean use that plus a bit of glue to permanently attach it. I am reminded of a story or two about folks not using these. Once my brother was leading a great Adirondack route called Esthesia. The other was the great Mike Freeman describing the one terrifying summer he did most of the Gunks' 5.11 R routes, and the route was To Have and To Have Not. In both cases they took terrific whippers, only to have their eyeglasses end up off their faces, landing in their hands. Not as much of an issue when you're cragging, but a big effing problem on a large alpine face where vision may be your key to route finding.
Other Items:

    • Bigger pack. Ours at 30-35 Liters were fine for a small scale cragging day or as a large lead pack, but not if we'd had any more gear. 45-55 Liters if we had mixed gear double ropes snowshoes poles etc. I was interested to see Matty Bowman's kit includes a large pack and then a lead pack, which I often see guides lead with. It makes sense as they carry emergency gear too, but I know folks who don't like to trail a rap line, need this and that, and a small lead pack can be great for that too. 10-20 L is about right.
    • Non-dark glasses. I use my street pair with a tether. Transitions can be backup, but both of ours got very dark on a not-light day, due to UV off of snow. It was a tad dark on the Dark Side...And sunglasses are a must in any snowy setting where you might get sun.
    • Potty kit, forgot mine, needed it, don't forget that...hand sani at a minimum and kleenex or tp is gentler than snow when it's 5 below...
    • Repair and First Aid (I had the latter and a few Allen wrenches). I keep them small, but do keep them. I try to refresh them every 3-6 months, and replace what I used and remove what I have never used. I do add gear for major trauma (SAM splint, major wound management bandages like a SWAT-T tourniquet in some situations like deep tours. I'm no expert, and WFR training offered by schools like Solo and NOLS is a great idea if you want to know more about this topic, and we all should.
    • Double ropes are often better on a dodgy medium like ice for redundancy, retreat, lower impact force, etc. It is a pain sometimes, but the escape from Diagonal would have involved less lost gear if we had had doubles...
    • Quick draws. I went and bought some as my son has half of mine. Easier with gloves and carabiners should be big ideally. And I've made fun of partners complaining about small carabiners, but for winter they are right: small clips are not the way to go with less dexterity. I only use smaller carabiners to rack cams on larger racks..
    • Snowshoes and poles. Duh. And a means to attach them to pack such that you can climb up and over with them. I also prefer a pole that collapses small, so 3 section, and the locking mechanism must be foolproof (ie, Black Diamond style).
    • Satellite rescue (have one, generally carry it (InReach 1.0). It's good idea but if it's that cold self-rescuing is really your best option, see double ropes above, tarp below.)
    • Tarp/rescue sled. I generally bring one ski touring but the same logic holds for ice. I also will sometimes bring a bothy, I think that's what the euros and limeys call it. I have one by Norrona Windsack. It's probably a lifesaver in the right situation, but I've not had to deploy it as yet.
    • Better climbing gloves. My best warm ones are now by Rab (Latok) I am looking at Mountain Equipment Hyper Couloir. Used to have ARC'TERYX but lost 1 and new build is stiff and a non-starter, too bad because the old Alpha SV was a very nice glove indeed.
    • Map and compass (I usually have the former on phone, and a real compass but paper maps are key if you think there is any chance you'll really need them.)
    • Headlamps. Yes plural. Backup can be a Petzl Bindi, but the main one should be one you can ski or route find by at full dark thirty.
  • Resources:
    • Andy Kirkpatrick - the man is an endless source of great information on how to suffer in style.
    • Alpine Savvy
    • Cold Thistle - Dane has not been as active in posting recently, but it's worth reading his old stuff
    • WildSnow - Lou Dawson was a key influence on my early ski mountaineering and bc skiing years
    • TeatonAT - similar to Lou, Steve Romeo, aka Rando Steve, was a key influence early days, may he rest 
    • Climbing Ice - a must read by Yvon Chouinard
    • Skagit Alpinism, by https://colinhaley.com/. 
    • Add your own here - there are so many and I have not even gotten into books.