Scarpa has made a recent comeback with me after about a decade or more of finding the other lasts more like my foot. Now I am happy with the Phantom Guide and Rebel Pro GTX. I climb mostly in New York State, but these would work just about anywhere where the temperature is not much more than 10-20 degrees of frost. This depends on how cold your feet get, but I find a great fit is always warmer. These boots follow on the Batura (1.0), Kayland Super Ice, and my Scarpa Assaults, Asolo 101s, which were about 10-20 years ago. I think I gave up on the Scarpas after the excellent if over-stiff Assaults because I nipped a toe on Fafnir at Cannon on some 5 degree day. I doubt it was the boot.
I also just tried out the rubber toe piece on the Petzel Lynx crampon, and reverted to dual front points. All these boots now seem best suited to asymmetrical crampons. When I first got boots with an asym sole, crampons were few which would fit them. The M10s and the Super 8s both worked. In climbing a half dozen pitches of 3-4 ice, but walking about a mile uphill, the setup worked nicely (ie, I did not notice it). The Rebel Pro was out for the first time and although so comfortable I almost had to tighten it again late in the day, it was pretty perfect. The lacing on both these and the Phantom Guides are the short coming: they are slick and likely to come undone. One of the Chamonix bloggers recommends a reef knot. The approach to Buttermilk Falls is also about 45-55 minutes and sweaty at the near freezing temperatures early this February. The boot rolled up the icy, hard trail as well as a crampon free option could be. It's light, stiff where you need it, and generally too comfortable to be true.
Of course, I did not need the Rebel. I've had the Phantom Guide for a season or two and it is also almost perfect. It is comfortable in the one key region the Batura was not comfortable for me: the ankle. It's similar to the sensation of trying the Dynafit TLT 5 for the first time after never evolving beyond Garmonts: you feel like you are climbing/hiking/sking in bedroom slippers. Articulated, cybernetic bedroom slippers, but comfy as felt with support.
Rich Gottlieb of Rock and Snow many years ago sold me a barely used pair of lovely Technica leather hiking boots. Leather inside and out, they were $90: he'd maybe worn the once and they were a tad small. I coveted them for about 10-15 years before the heels both blew up spectacularly in the last big snow storm. When asked for a replacement, heavy backpacking boot, he said something about the best climbing boots being lighter and more supportive and talked me into the Rebels, graciously discounted. So needed or not, I'm rocking them, and they seem perfect.
If I were to take one boot to the West or Alps in the summer, I'd take the Rebel. I'd use the Phantom for anything where temperatures were 10-20 degrees of frost. It would also be a bit more supportive on very long ice climbs, but the Rebel Ultra GTX looks like it might have the most support of the three.
Scarpa's Tech Mountain Line http://www.scarpa.com/tech-mountain
Since boots are likely the single most important item of gear, whatever you do, it's worth looking at options. I've not had a really comfortable experience over the years until recently, and it's not my feet which are improving. Heat formed high-end boot liners, custom foot beds, all that has made a huge difference in boot performance and comfort.
And boot to crampon fit should be like choosing your religion: choose carefully. I've found Petzl to be the best game around since the Super 8s. I never used the M10s, but the Lynx is a couple of seasons in and going strong. If I climbed more high grade technical ground I'd consider the Dart, but lack of replacement points offends my protestant ethic, and I like an anti-bot of the highest quality. Having almost killed myself with an express ride down South Gully in Huntington, I'm very particular on anti-bots working and lasting.
These and first generation Nomics are the basics of what I most enjoy climbing with in winter. I agree with Dane, the Dynafit can climb and ski remarkably well. If I were skiing at all, I'd be hard pressed to use the old Silveretta setup. The Dynafit boot/binding/ski combination is indicative of just how effing good ski mountaineering gear has gotten. Not that the old Mega Rides and BD Ascents (ski like they are made by Atomic) were so bad. They are just a thing of the past. It seems that the tech curve will only steepen as European ski racing elevates the gear to endless refinements.
Which brings me to the Luddite portion of this post. As we were climbing this series of pristine beautiful waterfalls...
Gregory Rukavina, my climbing companion the owner of the above image's copyright, was not without complaint. Once we set upon Buttermilk I encouraged him to drop rack and rope and we'd go with my sparse setup of 7 screws, some quickdraws and some alpine draws. These latter were with mini biners, and earned much scorn from the Rukavina. I did not have the difficulties he complained of, but was generally wearing very thin gloves (BDs or RABs leather and light insulation) as the day was mild. He was wearing warmer gloves (BD or Coudveil leather and insulation). I had no trouble clipping the admittedly petite Ange-sized draws, but he cursed them soundly. And since he carried the rope, later at least 2x the weight, and I the kit, almost as dry on the approach as the out. I will doubtless bring ye olde Spirit draws next time, lest the keening recur. I also thought he was right that small 'biners with gloves are not what you want when under duress.
I brought a cragging pack (Deuter 35+ Guide) and Gregory a climbing sac (Cold Cold World Chernobyl.) If we had climbed with packs, I would have been inclined to strip the frame from the Deuter. Most of the other parties had the second or even the first climbing with packs. Some were Cilo light, others Osprey larger models. We chose to take about 1/2 a liter of water and bars/gels. It was fine, and allowed us to move swiftly. The other parties were super considerate, nobody had any friction, and on the way down we and others offered rope rides which were gratefully refused. The crowd out there had a few guides, but in general the sense of community and camaraderie was very authentic and welcome. If I were to climb with a pack I'd have had a first aid and repair kit, my wet layer from the approach, and the other liter or more of water. Trekking poles are standard for the river crossing, and should be. We forgot ours, but did not pay the penalty. The Catskills really do offer some truly terrible hiking opportunities. Who exactly thought they would be a good place to take a holiday I do not know.
There were lots of other things which presented themselves this outing. Really sharp, new screws are great. Small 'biners are not. Late model picks come well de-tuned from the manufacturer, older ones not so much so. Good company is so much more important than any of that. We are really privileged and grateful.
